Where Paris once made its wine. For a long time, wine was made in Belleville. Not good wine, let's be clear about that. We would climb the hill on Sundays, outside the city walls, to drink a little wine that was worth nothing in the guinguettes of the butte. We didn't come for the vintage. We came for the view, and for forgetfulness. The vineyards have retreated before the city, like the strawberries of Bastille and the pears of Châtelet before them. Then, in 1992, we replanted a few rows on the slopes of the park, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, one harvest a year, facing Paris. More of a stubbornness than a vineyard. It is this memory that we have jarred. The grape first. A seedless variety, each berry is cut in half before going into the cauldron, which takes as long as it takes. Whole half-berries remain in the jar, the skin resisting just enough under the spoon, the juice that has candied everything around. The hibiscus next, which comes from below: a floral acidity, a bit dry, and this deep purple that distinguishes the jar at first glance. The lemon holds everything together. Cooked in a copper cauldron in our workshop at the Viaduc des Arts, in small quantities, without preservatives, with unrefined cane sugar. It knows no schedule. The buttered toast in the morning, the sheep's cheese in the evening, the roast poultry on Sundays. And if you ever go up to Parc de Belleville, look for the vine, right at the top, facing the city. It is still there, stubborn. Parc de Belleville opens the Parisian Gardens Box, alongside Parc des Buttes-Chaumont (lemon peppermint) and Jardin des Plantes (apple geranium rosat). Three neighborhoods, one city. Jar 250g. Price/kg: €59.60
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